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Thailand islands

Thailand without the beach, why bother?

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If you are not going to feel sand between your toes, surely there is no point in going to Thailand?
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A question many of my friends have asked since I returned. Nope, I didn’t lie on a sunbed, I didn’t go snorkelling, I didn’t island hop. But I did spend eight nights in Thailand, and the beautiful beaches people rave about are still a mystery to me. A mystery they shall remain. All the time I have such wonderful memories of the jungle, the lakes, the luscious green colour, the rather spicy but colourful cuisine and such warm smiles.

There is so much more to Thailand than the beaches.

My adventure began in Bangkok, weirdly the only place I was bitten by a mosquito! After a trip to a flower market and along one of the many canals, it was all aboard the overnight train to Surat Thani, an hour from Khao Sok National Park. My trip was always intended to experience alternative Thailand, and I definitely did that. Trekking through the jungle, playing spot the monkey, skipping across the rocks over the river and kayaking along the meandering river created such beautiful moments and photo opportunities. Our accommodation was a combination of a community lodge, a floating raft house and a homestay. It would be fair to say this would not be for everyone, but to really immerse yourself into the local community, I would not have wanted to be anywhere else. If you can’t learn to shower like a local what is the point?!

Thailand travellers on sleeper train
Khao Sok view from a long tail boat

We travelled along the river in Khlong Noi, which is part of a local community project to keep it clean. This means that the boat builders, a shrimp farmer and those manually stripping coconuts which we passed, are all able to make a living. Before this, people would have long days travelling to work in a factory. The community spirit was very strong around the river and we even enjoyed watching the local children on the back of their Vespas, all hurrying off to play football. The local fireflies made sure we did not miss out on any evening entertainment and were there to put on a great show for us.

If like me you love water, the floating raft house was a wonderful way to see life beyond the beaches in Thailand. Two steps out of your basic raft house and plop, you are in the lake. Time for that rustic shower! If pootling around in a kayak is more your thing, these were available too. The longboat trip to your accommodation is like something out of a movie – such peace and tranquillity with jungle scenery meeting the lake. If you have packed your hiking boots then seeing the vista from the highest point is highly recommended. Although it is a hard walk in the heat, it is worth the effort and makes your delicious evening meal guilt-free!

Going to places like Thailand, it is really important that your money is shared among the community. No one wants their money to leak out of the village as that breaks all principles of fairness. The Anurak Community Lodge guarantees that the local farmers benefit from providing the food served at the lodge, local people lead the excursions, and the lodge staff are all local too. This is a rarity in many of Thailand’s other tourist destinations. With its peaceful, beautiful surroundings, you can even enjoy a locally sourced cocktail on the terrace.

So, back to my original question, “Why bother?”.

The answer: because none of your friends will have done it, you will have lots of wonderful, natural experiences to share at your next dinner party, and you will have contributed directly to communities that do not benefit from the mass market tourists going to Thailand. Enjoy your real holiday!

Thailand locals fishing
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