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Argentina & Antarctica
Ceri in Argentina

Patagonia Cruise Guide: What to Expect

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Ceri shares her thoughts on what to expect on a Patagonia Cruise

Patagonia really feels like you’re at the edge of the world, and in many ways you are. Its position, at the southern tip of South America, sits close to Antarctica and Tierra del Fuego, at the very end of the continent. Stretching from Southern Argentina to Chile, this wilderness is vast, remote, and covered with jagged mountains, glistening lakes, and epic glaciers that rumble and crack as they break off into the icy fjords. On this once-in-a-lifetime adventure, our travel specialist, Ceri, boarded the Australis Cruise ship bound for Ushuaia, sailing past towering glaciers, untouched islands, and some of the most untamed corners of Patagonia.

Travel Specialist Ceri in Patagonia
Australis cruise

Life on board

As soon as I stepped on board the Australis ship, I knew I was in for a special experience. The boat carries a maximum of 200 passengers, which is much smaller than most other cruise ships, and gives it a more intimate feeling.

Cabins with a view

The cabins all have floor-to-ceiling windows, providing me with the most incredible views of the glaciers from my bed. I’ll never forget waking up to the shimmering ice in the dawn light. After the raw and rugged outdoors, you can unwind with a good book and a view, as well as a private bathroom and heating, making travelling on board a cosy and comfortable experience.

Meals on board

All meals are included on the cruise, with plenty to satisfy any appetite. As someone who has a nut allergy, I have to be very careful when I’m travelling. However, the cruise staff are incredibly helpful – all the meals were labelled with different dietary information, including vegetarian, vegan, nut-free and more, which helped me to feel at ease and enjoy the experience. There was a great mix of international cuisines and Chilean specialities, including local wines, soft drinks, cocktails and beers served throughout the day.

Daily program

Our days typically went something like this:

7:00 – 8:00 – Breakfast with a view | Wake up to glacier views and enjoy a delicious buffet breakfast

8:30 – 12:00 – Morning excursion | Hop in the zodiac boats, head ashore for a glacier hike, or visit Cape Horn

12:30 – 14:00 – Lunch on board | Share a hearty meal with fellow passengers back on board

15:00 – 18:00 Afternoon excursion | Return to the zodiacs and visit a different location for another glacier walk, or Wulaia Bay, wildlife-spotting

18:30 – 19:30 – Daily briefing | The expedition team gives an interactive talk about the day’s discoveries

20:00 – Dinner and relaxing | A mix of international dishes are served. Then unwind in the bar, and share stories with fellow travellers

Woman looking out the window on board the Australis Cruise
Ceri laid on bed looking out window on cruise

Wildlife encounters

One of the highlights of a cruise in Patagonia is the wildlife. Every time we stepped into the Zodiacs, it was an opportunity for spotting something new. Although I was travelling in March, which is just outside the main penguin season, I’m quite sure I saw two penguins swimming through the icy waters next to Pia glacier, which was just magical. If you travel a little earlier in the year, you’re likely to see huge colonies of Magellanic penguins around Magdalena Island.

Birds are everywhere, with cormorants, albatrosses, and other sea birds often circling the ship, and our guide would point out species I’d never heard of. If you’re lucky, it is possible to spot sea lions basking on the beaches and sometimes even to catch sight of a whale breaching or spouting in the distance.

When to spot wildlife on a Patagonia Cruise

October November

This is the start of the penguin season, when they return to nest on Magdalena Island and other spots, and it’s also a great time to see elephant seals and sea lions as they’re generally more active this time of year.

December – January

This is the peak period for seeing wildlife in Patagonia, when penguin chicks are hatching on the shore and dolphins, sea lions and whales are more likely to be spotted playing alongside the ship. These months also have the longest days of sunlight, so there’s more time to be outside spotting these beautiful creatures.

February – March

Penguins begin to migrate, but it’s still possible to see them in smaller numbers (or in the water, as I did!). There are still plenty of dolphins and seabirds around, and orcas and humpback whales can be spotted in some areas.

Magellanic penguins
cape horn patagonia

Environmental realities

The glaciers of Patagonia are among the most incredible natural wonders on Earth, but they are under threat. In recent decades, around 97% of them have been retreating, losing roughly a metre of ice each year. While on the cruise, our guides shared some mind-blowing stats about how one of the glaciers has retreated over 15km over the last century, which was incredibly sobering when you’re standing face to face with these magnificent walls of ice.

Highlights

  1. Sailing through Glacier Alley was an absolute highlight, with five huge glaciers, each named after a different European country. As we cruised past, the crew served themed dishes from each country, which was a novelty we all loved!
  2. Reaching Cape Horn, the very tip of South America, was an experience I’ll always remember. The wind was so strong, and I felt like I was at the edge of the earth. In that moment, I felt so grateful to be one of the few people to have the privilege of visiting this incredibly remote region, and stepping ashore was both humbling and exhilarating.
  3. Watching dolphins from the Zodiac boats as they leapt into the waves alongside us. They seemed to swim next to the boat just for fun, and being close enough to touch them was a magical moment.
Ceri on Patagonia cruise looking at glacier
Ceri travel specialist stood next to glacier

Practical tips

– Come prepared for all seasons. I had sunshine, rain, and snow on the same day

– Bring seasickness tablets. Some of the waters around Cape Horn can be unpredictable

– Pack layers for the Zodiac rides

– Download offline maps before your trip, as you won’t have signal during the cruise

– Embrace every moment – being completely off-grid in one of the most picturesque places in Patagonia is a rare gift